Peloponnese: Corinth and the Argolis
No visit to Greece is complete without a trip to Myceneae, Epidavros, Nafplio and the Corinth Canal
The ancient city of Corinth, known at least by
name from the Apostle Paul’s talks to the
Corintheans in the Bible, is now famous for its
canal, one of the more impressive feats of 19th
century engineering. Periandros originally
conceived the idea of a canal through the narrow
isthmus though at the time it was too much of an
endeavor to carry out. Instead they devised a
paved roadway that they used to haul the boats
across on rollers. This method was used until the
13th century. The emperor Nero attempted to dig a
canal but this chore was too much for him as well.
A French engineering company finally built it in
1893. It is still a wonder to behold and if you
walk to the middle of the old bridge that spans it
you will know what I mean. Yes, it does shake but
it has for years so don't be alarmed. Chances are
it will not fall while you are on it.
Acrocorinth is the Acropolis of
Corinth, which rises up from the ancient city. It
is the largest and oldest fortress in the
Peloponessos. There are a number of shrines and
temples including the Temple of Aphrodite. My good
friend Stuart Thorne, a reknown archeologist, has
a special love for Acrocorinth and visits
frequently, like a pilgrim to a holy shrine.
Probably the most interesting part of the citadel
is the entrance but the view from Acrocorinth is
simply incredible and if for no other reason this
site should not be missed. Though most of ancient
Corinth has either disappeared over the years or
been destroyed by Earthquakes there is still a
temple to Apollo built in the fifth century
BC. The Peirene Spring is said to have been
a woman transformed by the tears she shed for her
son who was killed by the God Artemis. It still
supplies old Corinth with water. There is a museum
on the site as well. Next to the Lechion road
which led to the ancient port is the garden of
Apollo a courtyard with some restored Ionic
columns.
Modern day Corinth is an important city and transportation hub with a long attractive waterfront and a variety of shops, restaurants, clubs and theatres. The buildings are mostly concrete apartment buildings since the city was either destroyed or damaged by earthquakes in 1858, 1928 and again in 1981. Most of the action takes place around the large Platia Venizelos on the waterfront.
For more on Corinth see
www.athensguide.com/taxitrip.html
Argolis Peninsula
Though the city of Argos the
regional capital itself is a low key, agricultural
town with little to offer tourists except the lack
of tourists which is an attraction in itself, it
still makes a good base for seeing the area though
most people will prefer Naphlion or Tolo because
they are on the sea. There are interesting ruins
in the area like the Roman ruins with it's giant
ampitheatre, baths and indoor theatre. The
Fortress of Larissa has been added to by nearly
everyone who has occupied the area from the
Byzantines to the Franks, the Venetians and the
Turks. The nearby Sanctuary of Apollo and Athena
and the Mycenean necropolis are also within
walking distance.
The town of Argos has a very lively street market in the
square which I believe is held on Thursdays. Besides fruits and vegetables and
the produce you will find in any laiki market there are also rows and rows of
clothing, antiques and household goods.
Myceneae
The Argolis Peninsula was the center of Greek
culture from 1600 to 1100 BC under the Myceneans
until the city was destroyed. The enormous stone
walls of the ancient city make one wonder how
anything short of a nuclear blast could harm it.
Because the stones were so massive, the Greeks
believed the giant Cyclops must have lifted them,
thus the term ‘Cyclopean walls’. The ancient city
is entered through the famous Lion Gate and
contains the palace of Agamemnon. If you remember
your Iliad you will know that Agememnon was the
brother of Menelaous, the husband of Helen, who
was abducted by Paris and taken to Troy. The
combined Greek forces under the command of
Agememnon took ten years to conquer the city of
Troy. On his return home Agememnon was murdered in
his bath by his wife Clytaemenstra who had taken a
lover in his absence and was still smarting over
the sacrifice of their daughter in an effort to
gain favorable winds for the expedition. Their son
Orestes then murdered her.
Helpful Sites:
Swift
Car Rentals
George's
Taxi Tours
Hotels
Athens
Guide
Travel Agents
Mainland
Guides
Nafplio
One of the most beautiful port towns in all of
Greece, Nafplio is a collection of Venetian houses
and classical mansions and the three fortresses of
Palamidi, Akronafplia and the Bourtzi which is on
a small island in the bay. The city was the first
capital of Greece after the war of Independence
when the entire country was contained in the
Peleponessos, the Turks controlling everything
else. The citadel is actually three fortresses,
built by the Venetians in 1714 and seized by the
Turks a year later. For those eager to climb the
999 steps the view is worth it. Nafplio is a town
of waterfront restaurants, outdoor movie theatres,
piano bars, cafes and a folk music festival in
late May and early June. The resort town of Tolo
and the beaches of Karathona, Asini, Drepano,
Plaka, Kadia and Iria are near enough to take up
your days, awaiting the pleasures of the evening.
For those who want to visit Epidavros, Myceneae,
Tiryns and other sites in the Argolis and beyond,
Nafplio is a good place to base yourself. There is
a train to Athens and a hydrofoil to
Spetsis,
Hydra
,
Poros
,
Aegina
and by connection back to
Pireaus (Athens). You can also make connections to
points south. (Check this with your travel agent because
this may have been discontinued).
Try the Ouzerie Epi Skenis for great
mezedes, atmosphere and one of the best collections of Rembetika and Laika CD's.
My choice for the best place to stay in Nafplio is the Hotel
Byron.
For more on Nafplio see www.greecetravel.com/nafplio
Epidavros
The theatre at Epidavros is the best preserved
example of a classical Greek amphitheater and a
person on the top row can hear a conversation
being spoken in normal tones in the center of the
theatre, a remarkable feat since the theatre can
hold 14,000 people. The Epidavros Festival takes
place here in the summer months with programs of
Ancient Greek Dramas. For a schedule consult the
summer edition of Odyssey Magazine or
check the Athens News which comes out every Friday and
can be found at almost any kiosk or newstand in Athens and around
Greece.
For more on the Argolis see www.athensguide.com/taxitrip.html
Be sure to see my Photos of the Peloponnesos for pictures of the Argolis