No visit to
Greece is complete without a trip to Myceneae, Epidavros, Nafplio
and the Corinth Canal
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Corinth
The ancient city of Corinth, known at least by
name from the Apostle Paul’s talks to the
Corintheans in the Bible, is now famous for its
canal, one of the more impressive feats of 19th
century engineering. Periandros originally
conceived the idea of a canal through the narrow
isthmus though at the time it was too much of an
endeavor to carry out. Instead they devised a
paved roadway that they used to haul the boats
across on rollers. This method was used until the
13th century. The emperor Nero attempted to dig a
canal but this chore was too much for him as well.
A French engineering company finally built it in
1893. It is still a wonder to behold and if you
walk to the middle of the old bridge that spans it
you will know what I mean. Yes, it does shake but
it has for years so don't be alarmed. Chances are
it will not fall while you are on it.
Acrocorinth is the Acropolis of
Corinth, which rises up from the ancient city. It
is the largest and oldest fortress in the
Peloponessos. There are a number of shrines and
temples including the Temple of Aphrodite. My good
friend Stuart Thorne, a reknown archeologist, has
a special love for Acrocorinth and visits
frequently, like a pilgrim to a holy shrine.
Probably the most interesting part of the citadel
is the entrance but the view from Acrocorinth is
simply incredible and if for no other reason this
site should not be missed. Though most of ancient
Corinth has either disappeared over the years or
been destroyed by Earthquakes there is still a
temple to Apollo built in the fifth century
BC. The Peirene Spring is said to have been
a woman transformed by the tears she shed for her
son who was killed by the God Artemis. It still
supplies old Corinth with water. There is a museum
on the site as well. Next to the Lechion road
which led to the ancient port is the garden of
Apollo a courtyard with some restored Ionic
columns.
Modern day Corinth is an
important city and transportation hub with a long
attractive waterfront and a variety of shops,
restaurants, clubs and theatres. The buildings are
mostly concrete apartment buildings since the city
was either destroyed or damaged by earthquakes in
1858, 1928 and again in 1981. Most of the action
takes place around the large Platia Venizelos on
the waterfront.
Most people who visit Corinth prefer to stay in the resort town of Loutraki, just a few miles north, known for its long beautiful beach and the famous Casino Hotel Loutraki. But another
option is
Daphne Club Hotel a few minutes south in the Greek resort town of Xylokastro. Certified with the European Ecolabel, these charming apartments are situated next to Sykia Beach and the unique Pefkias pine forest in Xylokastro. Free Wi-Fi, free bicycles, a library and an artists’ corner are available. Each of the apartments is fully equipped with
modern amenities, including air-conditioning and kitchenettes. Children are provided with an outdoor playground. Workshops, including yoga and belly dancing are provided upon request, and charges are applicable. The doors to the lounge open onto the beautiful hotel gardens in the summertime. Guests can admire the surrounding scenery from the rooftop garden. The pine forest and the beach are just 30 metres from the hotel. Beach chairs and umbrellas are provided free of charge and the hotel has a series of interesting
events they put on year-round.
For more on Corinth see
Read about my trip with George the Famous Taxi Driver
Fantasy Travel has a half-day trip to Corinth
You can find hotels in Corinth on Booking.com's Loutraki Page
Argolis
Peninsula
Though the city of Argos the
regional capital itself is a low key, agricultural
town with little to offer tourists except the lack
of tourists which is an attraction in itself, it
still makes a good base for seeing the area though
most people will prefer Naphlion or Tolo because
they are on the sea. There are interesting ruins
in the area like the Roman ruins with it's giant
ampitheatre, baths and indoor theatre. The
Fortress of Larissa has been added to by nearly
everyone who has occupied the area from the
Byzantines to the Franks, the Venetians and the
Turks. The nearby Sanctuary of Apollo and Athena
and the Mycenean necropolis are also within
walking distance.
The town of Argos has a very lively street market in the
square which I believe is held on Thursdays. Besides fruits and vegetables and
the produce you will find in any laiki market there are also rows and rows of
clothing, antiques and household goods.
Myceneae
The Argolis Peninsula was the center of Greek
culture from 1600 to 1100 BC under the Myceneans
until the city was destroyed. The enormous stone
walls of the ancient city make one wonder how
anything short of a nuclear blast could harm it.
Because the stones were so massive, the Greeks
believed the giant Cyclops must have lifted them,
thus the term ‘Cyclopean walls’. The ancient city
is entered through the famous Lion Gate and
contains the palace of Agamemnon. If you remember
your Iliad you will know that Agememnon was the
brother of Menelaous, the husband of Helen, who
was abducted by Paris and taken to Troy. The
combined Greek forces under the command of
Agememnon took ten years to conquer the city of
Troy. On his return home Agememnon was murdered in
his bath by his wife Clytaemenstra who had taken a
lover in his absence and was still smarting over
the sacrifice of their daughter in an effort to
gain favorable winds for the expedition. Their son
Orestes then murdered her.
There are several hotels and restaurants in the town of Myceneae but most people will be happier staying in Nafplion and visiting here on the way there or back.
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Nafplio
One of the most beautiful port towns in all of
Greece, Nafplio is a collection of Venetian houses
and classical mansions and the three fortresses of
Palamidi, Akronafplia and the Bourtzi which is on
a small island in the bay. The city was the first
capital of Greece after the war of Independence
when the entire country was contained in the
Peleponessos, the Turks controlling everything
else. The citadel is actually three fortresses,
built by the Venetians in 1714 and seized by the
Turks a year later. For those eager to climb the
999 steps the view is worth it. Nafplio is a town
of waterfront restaurants, outdoor movie theatres,
piano bars, cafes and a folk music festival in
late May and early June. The resort town of Tolo
and the beaches of Karathona, Asini, Drepano,
Plaka, Kadia and Iria are near enough to take up
your days, awaiting the pleasures of the evening.
For those who want to visit Epidavros, Myceneae,
Tiryns and other sites in the Argolis and beyond,
Nafplio is a good place to base yourself. There is
a bus to Athens and if you take a bus or taxi to Hermioni, Porto Helli or Galata you can hydrofoil to
Spetsis,
Hydra
,
Poros
,
Aegina
and back to
Pireaus (Athens).
Try the Ouzerie Epi Skenis for great
mezedes, atmosphere and one of the best collections of Rembetika and Laika CD's.
My choice for the best place to stay in Nafplio is the Nafplion Palace is you have money to spare and want a great view and a pool,and still actually be right in the center of town, or the Grand Sarai Nafplio if you want something more historical and simple. If you have budgetary
restrictions I suggest the Atheaton Traditional Guesthouse or the Filyra Pension, both highly rated and located in the old town.
For more on Nafplio see
Matt's Nafplion Page
which has a lot more information on restaurants, hotels and what to see.
If you are planning to go to Nafplion on your own you can find dozens of hotels searchable by category, location, and amenities at Booking.com's Nafplion Page
Epidavros
The theatre at Epidavros is the best preserved
example of a classical Greek amphitheater and a
person on the top row can hear a conversation
being spoken in normal tones in the center of the
theatre, a remarkable feat since the theatre can
hold 14,000 people. The Epidavros Festival takes
place here in the summer months with programs of
Ancient Greek Dramas. For a schedule consult the
summer edition of Odyssey Magazine or
check the Athens News and the Athens Plus which come out every Friday and
can be found at almost any kiosk or newstand in Athens and around
Greece.
Be sure to visit the town of Ancient Epidavros which is on the coast and has an other small theater which was just discovered in the last twenty years in some guys backyard. The town itself has an attractive waterfront with fishing boats, fish tavernas and cafes and the whole area smells of orange blossoms.
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More Helpful Information
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For more on the Argolis
Read about my trip with George the Famous Taxi Driver
You can book a private tour which will give you a lot more flexibility through George the Famous Taxi Driver
Fantasy Travel offers a 2-Day Excursion to Myceneae, Epidavros and the Argolis, with a night spent in Nafplion with very good rates, as well as a 3-Day Classical Tour which also includes Olympia and Delphi and a 4-Day Classical Tour that also includes Meteora. These are very practical ways to see the mainland.
For those who want to do it on their own by rental car, you can be in Corinth from Athens in about an hour and Nafplion in less than two, and Swift Rent-a-Car makes it even easier by helping you drive out of the city to the National Road or meeting your flight at the airport..
Be sure to see my Photos of
the Peloponnesos for pictures of the Argolis
You can find hotels in the Argolis by location, price, whether or not it has a swimming pool, and see photos and reviews by using this link to booking.com.
Excellent prices and many hotels you can book and then cancel
with no cancellation fee. For those who want to book without using a travel agency this is the best way to do it.
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