TAYGETUS FOOTHILLS TREK

The Area
The southern Peloponnese is just beginning to enter the tourist scene, thanks to a new motorway and direct flights to Kalamata, after years being considered as too remote and inhospitable. We visit the central part of the southern Peloponnese, keeping to less developing parts where there are few tourists in midsummer and virtually none at all when we visit.
Kardamili lies approximately at the centre of Outer or Messinian Mani, which has the same stone-fortified houses and rugged, barren scenery that put the Deep Mani on the map. The architecture is striking, with tall, narrow houses, sturdy structures with thick walls and few windows (cool in summer) built of local, pastel-coloured stone and tiles or grey slate. The landscape matches the buildings for grandeur: forever dominating the eastern skyline is the massive, rocky ridge of Taygetus (2407m), snow-capped until late April. Its higher foothills, deprived of their water by underground channels and caves in the porous limestone, are dry and forbiddingly lunar. But towards the coast, the rivers re-emerge (do not be deceived by the fact that some are now piped parallel to their natural course to supply the coastal resorts) to feed fields of crops and olive groves.
In spring their verdant offsets the brown and white of the higher ground to dramatic effect. Olives and olive oil, packed in Kalamata (the county capital), are the biggest and proudest export of the region, with local honey and figs boosting the economy. Some unusual cheeses, such as the creamy "sfela", are the fruit of the huge goat population, while further south women gather salt from the sun-dried rocks as their husbands polish up their backgammon skills. Tourism is also beginning to make an impact. You can find out more in Patrick Leigh-Fermor's exuberant book, "The Mani" (Penguin).
Though very little of the ancient remains, Mystras gets its fair share of tourism; it lies on a sharp, conical hill at the limit between mountain and plain - a line so distinct that one could almost measure the angle of slope with a protractor. Separated into three parts - the Kastro (fortress), upper town and lower town - this historic settlement used to be the Byzantine capital of the Peloponnese, and indeed the last Byzantine civilisation.

Climate
In spring and autumn, the weather is typically mild and sunny, but there is a chance of rain and cloud. We typically walk in T-shirts and shorts or trousers, but put on an extra layer when we stop for a break. Sea temperature will range be quite chilly in spring but warm in autumn, and we often swim after our walks on days 1-3. In the summer the temperature can reach 35 - 40 degrees Celsius.

Flora and fauna
In spring, the southern Peloponnese turns into a real carpet of flowers, with wild iris, orchids and anemone opening the show in March/April; daisies, spurge and valarium complete the scene. In autumn graceful cyclamen, snowdrops and several species of crocuses abound. Wild herbs (oregano, basil, and thyme) scent the hillsides throughout the year.
Much of the land we walk through is cultivated, usually with olive and citrus groves, and the odd banana or palm tree. At higher altitudes (starting just above Anavriti), there are pine and fir forests, with stands of majestic black pine.
Hunting has driven many animals and game birds away from Taygetus, as in the rest of Greece, but we still see, of the birds, buzzards and occasional goshawks, bee-eaters and kingfishers. Rock Nuthatches are common on the ruins of Mystras. Of the region's huge population of butterflies (some indigenous), the two-tailed pasha is perhaps the most spectacular; and, of the land fauna, various lizards, tortoises, snakes (nearly all harmless) and the occasional badger cross our path.

Equipment
Please try to travel as light as possible. Although you do not need to carry all your luggage while walking, you will still need to carry it over short distances. Luggage not needed on the trek can be left at the Fantasy Travel office - please arrange in plenty of time - or (if appropriate) at the hotel in Athens.
Large rucksack or holdall to contain all your luggage; waterproof liner recommended
Good waterproof top (Goretex recommended or similar) with hood.
Thick socks for walking
Spare shoes for the evenings (optional) ? Daypack (small rucksack, 20-40 litres) to carry picnic lunch, waterbottle, cold/wet weather gear, camera, etc; straps should be strong, not too narrow and preferably padded. In wet weather, belongings should be packed in waterproof plastic bags inside the pack
Sturdy, worn in boots. We recommend hard soles for Greece's rocky terrain; leather or fabric uppers are suitable. Many walkers find a walking stick extremely useful
Photographers: bring plenty of film. ? Warm clothes for the evening including spare trousers and top (fleece jackets/pullovers are warm yet light); also woolly hat and gloves, plus optionally thermal underwear, for the April departure
Shorts and long trousers for walking, preferably quick-drying material (cotton or polycotton not denim) ? Sweatshirts or T-shirts for walking, at least one with collar and long sleeves (against sun-burn)
Sunglasses, swimsuit, small towel, sun hat or cap, sunblock ? Penknife and plastic bowl or plate for picnics
Waterbottle or plastic bottle (at least 1 litre)
Washbag and simple first aid kit (plasters or blister kit, aspirin or similar, antiseptic); earplugs, lipsalve, tweezers and cotton wool can be useful. ? Bring washing powder or liquid if you plan to wash clothes en route
Sanitary towels are not available en route
Torch(flashlight) can be useful

Accommodation and food
We spend three nights in a clean, well-kept pension (A category) in the fishing village of Kardamili (twin rooms with private facilities. We spend three nights in the Hotel Vyzantion (twins and triples with private facilities; B category. Vegetarians can be catered for if we are advised beforehand. Lunches are light taverna meals (salads, dips, bread, cheese, maybe greens or chips) or simple simple picnics taken at a scenic spot en route according to the walking programme.

Walking
The walking is on a mixture of dirt tracks, well-constructed stone mulepaths (sometimes overgrown) and one riverbed. There is also one stretch of narrow trail in the gorge above Parori, which vertigo sufferers might find uncomfortable but not dangerous. Although there is relatively little up- and downhill (maximum climb 800m on day 6, maximum drop 800m on day 2), the terrain is stony and you may find a stick useful to take pressure off the knees.

Leadership and group size
Your tour leader will be with you throughout the week to guide you along the route, help organise and interpret in the villages and assist the group in any other way possible.
Our leaders are fluent in English and Greek as well as often another language, and have walked in the area before. They will try and give you a real insight into the local way of life and, for those interested, will happily give some basic Greek lessons while walking or over evening drinks. Although not specialists, they are interested in the area's flora and fauna and usually carry field guides. They always have maps and a compass. We expect to run this trip with a group of 8-16 participants.

Money
All meals, accommodation, site entrance fees and transport (as per itinerary) are included in the tour cost; personal expenses including drinks are excluded. You will not be charged for any hidden extras. We suggest that you bring a minimum of 20,000 GRD with you to pay for any drinks or snacks and any souvenirs or unexpected items. There are good shopping and limited banking/postal facilities in Kardamili, but nothing other than a basic store in Anavriti. Our own postcards are available.

Day by day program

Day 1 – From Athens, travel to Kardamili and short walk
Meet in Athens, at your hotel, Transfer to Kardamili (5 hours). in seaside taverna. Afternoon walk up to Petrovouni village, Ayia Sofia 11th-century church and back (mulepath, 2 hrs). Dinner and O/N in Kardamili guesthouse.
Day 2 - Viros gorge and villages (5 hrs)
Transfer to Exohori village (30 min). We then walk down into the dry Viros gorge, with views up to the Taygetus peaks, and up a winding mulepath to Tseria village for a simple taverna lunch (2 hrs, the ascent is quite steep). Afterwards we walk via Pedino village to Kalives hamlet before descending back into Viros gorge and along it to Kardamili (3 hrs on partly overgrown paths and stony riverbed between high cliffs). Dinner and O/N in Kardamili guesthouse.
Day 3 - “Castles and churches” walk (6 hrs)
Transfer to Sotirianika village (45 mins). We walk past the deserted monastery of Agios Georgos, across a stone bridge over the Koskarakas gorge, and past the nunnery of Evangelistria (with just one nun at present) to reach Kambos village (3 hrs, dirt road and paths). Here we visit a Mycenean grave tomb, a 19th-century mansion and (½ hr walk) the 15th-century Zarnatas castle and private chapel of Zoodohou Pigis with its unusual and well-preserved frescoes; picnic lunch here. We continue via Malta village, the Koumoundourakis castle and follow the coastal mulepath back to Kardamili (3 hrs). O/N Kardamili.
Day 4 - Travel to Mystras and short walk (1-2 hrs)
Drive to Mystra for about 3-4 hours in beautiful scenery of Southern Peloponese wildness and finish the day with a short introductory walk around the area.
Day 5 - Loop walk around Mystra (5 hrs)
Transfer to the chapel of Agios Giorgos, our departure point for today’s trek. We take the old kalderimi (mulepath) up to the village of Anavriti. We continue on dirt road and path and after a pic-nic halt, we descend to the plain on a spectacular mulepath giving excellent panoramic view. The trek ends at Sohas for a transfer back by car or taxi at Mystra
Day 6 - Mystras (6 hrs)
Walk up through ruined Byzantine town visiting numerous churches, with their excellent restored frescoes, and the 13th-century castle (1½ hrs walking time, 300m climb). At the one functioning convent remember to dress properly (long trousers for men, long skirts for ladies). You can either go with the leader (who is not qualified by Greek law to guide you round the site but does have a good working knowledge of the history and buildings) or make your own way to the castle gate and meet there. We return to modern Mystras village along a valley path (1 hr, 300m drop).
Day 7 – Return to Athens
After breakfast Transfer back to Athens Trekking Hellas office. End of trip.

Please note that this itinerary is subject to change at the discretion of the tour leader,
according to local and weather conditions.

Return to Fantasy Tours Trekking Index

For Prices and Booking Information Click Here